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Laurent Gerbaud, Belgium

Image via Station Gourmande

I recently got back from a quick trip to Belgium. The point of the trip was to witness my husband Todd and his brother Jason, get knighted by the Knighthood of the Brewers' Mash Staff (Belgian Brewers' Guild). Yes, it was a trip all about beer. But the beer helped me with a good tip on chocolate.

While visiting Moeder Lambic (probably one of the best beer bars in the world), Jean Hummler of Moeder Lambic recommended Laurent Gerbaud to me. We were discussing side hobbies and passions outside of beer. I told him I write about chocolate and that I am staying the most touristy part of Brussels, the chocolate shops were plentiful and equally touristy. A couple of saving graces for the serious chocolate fan were Valrhona, Galler, and of course the famed Pierre Marcolini. 

Jean told me Laurent's shop was very close to the bar. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to make it over there in time. I also, wasn't able to make it to Pierre Marcolini. This is okay with me because it just means I HAVE to go back now and maybe I will be back for Christmas. Imagine all the special treats at Christmas time. Nothing is more special than a gaudy European chocolate shop at Christmas time.

Not to worry. On one of our hardcore drinking nights, we naturally ended up back at the Moeder Lambic and amazingly, Jean took time out of his own personal day to get me a few noshes from Laurent Gerbaud. 

Since I wasn't able to visit his shop or speak with him directly, here are some blurbs about Laurent, his concept, and his special blend of couverture chocolate via his website:

LAURENT GERBAUD, chocolatier in Brussels marries chocolate, fruit and spices for 7 years. During a prolonged stay in China, he discovers the rich realm of Asian tastes and smells and begins to coat delicious kumquats (small candied oranges) with dark chocolate: an unexpected delicacy. Back in Belgium he passionately continues to create tasty combinations : "I do only what I like. When I am developing products, my only guide is my personal taste". The ingredients that compose each of his creations are all selected among the best ones in their league, and each delicacy is hand-made: " The chocolate and every ingredient we use are noble and precious: their character can be preserved only through a hand-made treatment."

These jewels are presented in a sophisticated packaging that visually enhances each product and turns them into irresistible temptations: precious gifts or a personal treat. The very distinctive LAURENT GERBAUD's logo features a red seal with the word 'chocolate' in Chinese. The deep and bright colours help create a distinctive identity to the range and contribute to evoke the world of tastes and travels in store.

LAURENT GERBAUD's chocolates are currently sold in more than fifty delicacy stores and specialized tea shops in Brussels, Paris, Berlin, London and other main cities in Europe.

The new range of LAURENT GERBAUD Dark Chocolate 70% is built around an exceptional chocolate couverture prepared by Domori according to an exclusive recipe. Domori, one of the best luxury couverture chocolate makers in Europe, works only with the best cocoa beans in very small quantities, using a manufacturing process that allows the expression of all aromas of the chocolate. This philosophy met exactly LAURENT GERBAUD's own objectives, and so began a very nice partnership. This exclusive Chocolate is to be compared with vintage wines: these wines are made of specific types of grapes which develop special aromas according to their growing soil. The same happens with chocolates: they are made of specific cocoa beans selected for their aromatic and tasting qualities. LAURENT GERBAUD's exclusive mix is composed of Trinitario beans (5% of global cocoa production) originating from the Sambirano Valley in Madagascar and of Nacional beans (2% of global production), a Forastero unique of its kind, exclusively grown in Ecuador. The Trinitario beans give the chocolate its richness and aromatic intensity whilst the Nacional beans care for its exceptional length.

Treatment of small quantities of beans as well as low temperatures during the whole manufacturing process are essential factors to the preservation of the subtle and unique aromas of those noble cocoas. Not using soy lecithin ensures the mix is closer to the original chocolate recipe. This Dark Chocolate with intense and powerful taste has been developed especially to fit perfectly with the fruits used by LAURENT GERBAUD in his compositions.

The Milk Chocolate 50% designed by Domori for LAURENT GERBAUD is also a mix of rare Nacional beans from Ecuador. It holds 50% of cocoa, has exceptional sweetness and softness. A touch of Guérande salt completes this subtle picture. The Milk Chocolate contains a very small percentage of soy lecithin.

Now, these got back to the States in the best condition I could manage. They were stashed in my carry on, kept close to me without a lot of bumping. But being loosely packed, don't expect shining displays of glory. I was meant to eat these in Belgium, but selfishly, I stowed them away to write about when I got home. 

 

 

The plain disks were loaded with the aromas from the candied orange peels and candied ginger. But you can taste the cedar wood notes from the Madagascar beans and the drying effect and rounded edges from the Nacional beans. Hints of cinnamon, cherries, cedar wood, and some hidden berries.

Excellent quality. Rich, bittersweet, not heavily sweetened. With the salted cashews, this is the prefect blend. I like that the salt and cashew oils tone down a lot of that cinnamon flavor.

**Todd loved cashews. Too bad for Todd, he was Knighted in Belgium. He got a medal and all the attention he could handle. I am not sharing my Belgian prize of these cashew chocolate disks with him. 

 

Prunes dipped in chocolate. Again this blend works wonderfully with dried fruits. Sweet, prunes, but not overly sweet, and rich dominating chocolate.

However, the dried fruits draw out more of the cinnamon notes. I like the salted cashews which tame the cinnamon notes and allow for more of the raw cocoa taste to come through while being blended with the cashew flavors.

The second picture are chocolate balls filled with a gorgeous hazelnut paste of butter. Lightly sweetened and naturally oily. Like a chunky peanut butter filling but better because it's delicious hazelnuts. Simply fantastic.

The candied ginger and orange peel I passed on to my husband. I am not a fan of candied peels, and I really don't like ginger all that much. I did take a nibble into the ginger, and I can say it did work with really well with the chocolate blend. If I can recognize a good match in something I don't even like, then that is worth noting. Again, not my favorite so I passed it to my husband.

And the other are assorted truffles or bonbons. Again, using the house blended cocoa. Lovely flavors with that awesome finishing touch of Madagascar cedar wood flavors, cherries, and that clean drying finish of the Nacional beans. 

I am so glad this was recommended to me. In a sea of tourist chocolate like Godiva and Neuhaus, this comes a great treat and a shining beacon for Belgian chocolate. 

Next time I am in Belgium, I will have this chocolate with Jean, and take his beer list and do a real comprehensive Belgian beer and chocolate tasting. Those will be true notes to look forward to.

Thank You William Curley!

I haven't had much time to blog about chocolate recently. Work, beer dinners, charity auctions, a trip to Belgium, and next week a trip to Denver. I have been incredibly backlogged. But I haven't forgotten about a very special package sent to me by William Curley in London.

A while back, I wrote a rather harsh review of one of his chocolate bars. A friend of mine stormed London and brought back over 50 bars of chocolate for me. WC was definitely on the list. The Caramel Sea Salt bar from WC was fantastic. But one of the bars of chocolate was off. I stand by the review.

Mr. Curley had seen the review and offered to send a replacement. Sending things overseas is a big deal to me. Not only did he send a replacement bar, but two other caramel bars, caramelized hazelnuts, and a box of assorted truffles.

Way above and beyond customer service. These things really matter. Yes, if something is off most people do expect some sort of compensation. I am just not one of these people who demands it unless the service has been really bad or the person behind it is unworthy or rude. William Curley couldn't be more gracious. I am grateful for such a nice package.

 

This a serious assortment of truffles too. Interesting and unusual flavors not to mention WC uses famed Amedei chocolate for his coverture chocolate.

* Every truffle contains butter, cream, and invert sugar. May contain nuts, sesame seeds, wheat, alcohol, honey, and gold leaf.

Amedei Chuao 

Made with Chuao cacao (Criollo) from Amedei in Italy. 70% dark chocolate from the Chuao peninsula of Venezuela and topped with a small hint of gold flakes. Amedei is considered by me and many around the world to be one of the finest chocolate makers in the world WC uses their chocolate as couverture chocolate. Amedei Chuao is widely considered one of the best chocolates in the world and have won many awards for this chocolate. Chuao beans are also considered to be some of the worlds most rare and finest cacao. 

Soft, smooth texture, slightly tangy, rich, buttery, and creamy filling with hints of pepper and honey. (Some flavor profiles may be because of direct contact with other truffles in the box.)

Normally I find beer and chocolate a much more suitable match. I think this is a red wine truffle all the way. This truffle is complex and almost a little savory.

Raspberry & Toscano 

Half raspberry gelee filling topped with a layer of soft truffle filling made with Amedei Toscano (Criollo, Trinitario blend) 70% dark chocolate.

Soft, creamy and delicate chocolate filling on top of a sweet raspberry gelee square with the seeds in it. Natural flavors make this more sweet and fruity than tangy. Chocolate is sweeter and softer than the Amedei Chuao.

Very, very nice truffle.

Fresh Mint

Super soft center slightly sunken in shell top, light and delicate mint flavor, bright but not overwhelming, brief tangy sharpness up front to this truffle, smooth and creamy texture. Slightly milky after taste on the chocolate.

Once again, a very nice truffle. Subtle minty flavors and uncomplicated cocoa flavors. 

Caramel

Soft, gooey center, tangy. At first I thought this was the Heather and Thyme truffle. The caramel had honey like flavors and herb tastes that were similar to flavors found in beer. Naturally I thought it was the heather but the thyme flavors were virtually nil. And identified the thyme and heather truffle later on. It could be a small taste of the Assam caramel bar! I really hope it is, because it's quite delicious and would be amazing in a full bar.

Passion Fruit & Mango

This one was a big rough looking around the edges, but gorgeous in taste. A bit acidic and tart from the fruits, but softer passion fruit and mango flavors made for a lovely truffle and balanced the rich chocolate.

A nice little surprise with this one.

Apricot & Wasabi

 

Soft apricot gelee topped with a layer of soft ganache. Barely noticeable wasabi flavor. A bit disappointing with this one as I was expecting some heat. No heat and virtually no wasabi flavor. On the upside, it was still a delicious bite, with more focus on the cocoa flavors and stone fruit flavors.

Blackcurrent & Juniper Berry

Very nice truffle. Black current gelee topped with a juniper berry ganache. The flavors pop and are quite distinguishable, but do not linger and are not over powering. The rich chocolate is also not over powering. It's almost palate cleansing in a way as the rich flavors sort of cancel each other out. They make their presence known and then bow out to the other flavors.

Sea Salt Caramel

This is my favorite. As was the Sea Salt Caramel bar, this one is a small bit of that. Rich, super soft, buttery, and lightly salty caramel around a molded chocolate cover. The top design is covered with cocoa pods. This is the taste of Amedei that I love. Rich chocolate that takes it's time opening up so you are allowed to enjoy the caramel. Once you have been swept away by the rich caramel, the bold and savory cocoa flavors leave a lasting lingering finish.

Just fantastic!

Piedmont Hazelnut

This top shell design reminds me of beer rings or the logo of Camrbidge Brewing Co. I expected this to be a gianduja center but was delighted at the actual hazelnuts inside. Sweet and honey like flavors, a crispy hazelnut bottom, with a chocolate ganache top. Lovely and not heavy. Gianduja can sometimes be very rich. This was very sweet but light and delicious.

A nice break from all the soft textured truffles. Though the gelee centers have been very enjoyable.

Richmond Park Honey

Sweet and lightly tangy, buttery ganache with soft smooth finish. Very delicate with slight floral hints. This was one I was least impressed with flavor wise, but with the super high quality of these truffles, it's not like it's bad quality. Still has a rich cocoa flavor with a gorgeous buttery, and soft texture. Still fabulous.

Toasted Sesasme

I found the missing seeds from this truffle under the Piedmont Hazelnut. The toasted sesame seeds were nice with chocolate. They gave it almost a sesame seed brittle taste. However, the ganache center was very floral and citrus-y. Bright and but not tart ganache with lovely roasted cocoa.

Thyme and Scottish Heather Honey

Very herbal and flavorful. Not too cloying with the honey. The thyme comes out right up front finishing with a soft heather honey flavor. The herbal flavors roll nicely with the rich chocolate. A sweet lingering finish is left from the soft honey. 

Once again, a very big thank you to William Curley for taking time out to send a lovely care package all this way. I am forever grateful and the truffles were to die for. Excellent quality. I can't wait until I am back in London so I can sit in his shop and have more of his fine offerings.

Look soon for me to post my notes from the Caramel bars and the house bar reviews part 2.