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Patric Chocolate ~ Salty Signature Seventy

 

 

It's been a long time for me and my old pal, Alan McClure. Singing his praises behind every chocolate conversation. "I know that guy, he is a cool dude, and he is one of the few who truly gets it and creates truly good chocolate in this country." Truly!

Not too thrilled with the new packaging. Though it's hardly new now. He used to have much more sophisticated packaging, albeit a little same-y to the other bars out there. My homie has gone a little hipster on me. But whatever my opinions are, it's working. New products are being created, new collaborations, and new people out there talking about this fine American-made bean-to-bar chocolate.

I had a go with one of his newer creations called PBJ OMG. As silly as that lame name is, it ends being exactly what it is. He blended peanut butter into one of his more jammy/fruity bars of Madagascar chocolate to create a peanut butter and natural jelly flavored bar. It's fucking exceptional. I didn't review it, but I ordered it again with a promise to this blog to have that review up soon.

I was also lucky enough to get my hands on Deep Ellum Brewing Co.'s Double Cherry Chocolate Double Brown Stout. It's really a Baltic Porter all suped-up with Patric's Madagascar nibs and cherries. It's fucking delicious. Extremely limited edition, 300 bottles made, and my lucky ass got TWO of them. Thanks to the kind people at Deep Ellum.

There see what I've gone and done? Two F bombs in one review and in praise.

This review is about Patric's signature bar of blended cacao, and flavored with exotic sea salts. Limited edition bar with only 950 made. I bought four bars. I gave one away so far to my favorite restaurant owner, reviewing this one, and sitting on two to share with worthy friends.

 

On a foundation of our incomparable Signature 70% blend, we have sprinkled Prussian Blue salt, for sparkle, and Bali Sea Salt, for crunch. We sourced both of these salts with the advice and help of The Meadow in NYC, home of the world's best Selmelier: Mark Bitterman, author of Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral.

 

Salty Signature Seventy

 

Type: Flavored bittersweet, 70%

Bean Varietal: Blend

Ingredients: Cacao, cane sugar, cocoa butter, and salt.

Sample Size: 65g or 2.3oz

 

Appearance: Signature monogrammed splatter paint custom molding, Matted finish from the molding, back surface lightly sprinkled with salt. A little dry looking on the backside, and flow marks from filling.

Score: 87

Snap: Excellent snap. Very firm, crisp, nice loud snap, and clean break lines.

Score: 94

Aroma: Softer aroma than expected. Pen ink, a little rubber and char, soft roasted cacao, slightly floral, and some tiny hints of blueberries. Really faint though.

Score: 91

Taste: Salt up front, strong fruity flavors, tar, pen ink, a little tart, sweet sugars, berries, coffee flavors, wood, floral spiciness.

Score: 95

Texture: Nice gritty salt, then it opens up to a perfect medium melt time. Just long enough for all of the big huge flavors to take center stage. Creamy with a slight drying effect.

Score: 91

 

Aside from the gorgeous salt, and the shine that barely peeks out of the monogrammed molding, I am just not in love with the new molding. I liked it better with it was a tablet with monogrammed P's. It was much simpler, and more beautiful. Had better shine and sophistication.

Don't hate me Alan.

I am positive this bar is blended with Madagascar and Rio Caribe. All the hallmarks are there. Huge jammy fruits from the Madagascar, and tar, pen ink, and rubber from the Rio Caribe. Rio Caribe is by far and away not my favorite region for cacao, but Patric's stood out as the most robust and layerd versions of that origin. And blended with the Madagascar, it really softens up the Rio Caribe, but it doesn't deflect it's own big huge flavors. I am not sure if anything else was blended into this bar. These two origins dominate, but I would like to know where that insanely good spicy floral note comes from. 

The palate is totally dominated immediately by gorgeous salt, but then it melts away allowing a huge roller coaster of flavors to take over. The dank and dirty Rio Caribe flavors of pen ink, char, and rubber, then big bold sugars dominate the bar and huge fruits pop out, then this gorgeous floral spiciness takes over. It's simply amazing that last part. Best part of the entire bar in fact.

The aroma is fairly soft leaving only the less desirable aromas of Rio Caribe coming through. It doesn't leave any impression of the roller coaster about to invade your palate.

At first, I thought the salt sprinkled on top might have been a little skimpy just based on appearance. But tasting it, it was well balanced. You forget how big some of these salts can be and it ends up being the first huge flavor impact the palate is fronted with. Well balanced with extremes though. Big salt, big fruit, and bold sugars. They each take their turn presenting themselves. A well balance of the blended cacaos.

I freaking loved this bar. Probably one of the best bars I have had all year. No Bullshit. The letter grade is only reflective of the molding and mildly about the aroma and texture. This bar is still one of the best tasting bars I have had in a while.

 

Final Score: 91.6

   score
  B+

Weiss ~ Kacinkoa 85%

 

 

 

French chocolatiers since 1882.

Via the Weiss website and translated from Google:

The young Alsatian chocolatier confectioner Eugene Weiss founded his chocolate factory in Saint-Etienne in 1882. He is the inventor of the Top Chocolate, or the art of assembling the various soils beans to create a chocolate aroma of great subtlety and rare regularity. He also became a master in the preparation of praline he imagines in his famous Nougastelles always manufactured to the original recipe.

Chocolaterie Weiss is one of the last French chocolate to control the entire manufacturing: selection of beans, assembly, roasting the old to the gas ball, crushing, cocoa grinder, mixer, grinding and conching (the conching is the last essential step that will give the chocolate all its finesse and smoothness).

Complex aromas, slightly sweet, silky and fine quoits, a rare long finish: discover why chocolate lovers recognize Weiss eyes closed.

Weiss provides an authentic chocolate of rare purity, pure cocoa butter, no added vegetable fats, and offers mostly chocolate candy hazoïque without preservatives or coloring.

Weiss uses only beans of noble origins from the best vineyards in the world: Venezuela, Ecuador, Trinidad ...

Weiss chooses the best beans high, knowing the combine, according to the desired mixtures, the Trinitario cocoa from Trinidad & Tobago, the Venezuelan Rio Caribe Forastero or Ivory Coast, whose power is needed to spice up some specialties.

Weiss is as uncompromising in the selection of its raw materials. The ingredients in the composition of confectionery are rigorously selected pod natural vanilla, honey Pilat, almonds of Valencia in Spain and Marconas, Piedmont hazelnuts and Rome, oranges South of the Iberian Peninsula and apricot Luberon , Ceylon tea and jasmine tea, pure Arabica coffee, old kirsch, cognac ... and, the highlight, the 22-carat gold that covers the famous Or Palets

"My passion, my art.
Chocolate as love
Is an eternal source of inspiration
Rich of the noblest emotions. "

Eugene Weiss (1858-1939)

 

 

 

Kacinkoa 85%

 

Type: Bittersweet, 85%

Bean Varietal: Blended

Ingredients: Cocoa, sugar, cocoa butter, GMO-Free soy lecithin.

Sample Size: 100g or 3.5oz

 

Appearance: Patterned molding without monogram, deep dark brown, ashy, a little dusty with light sugar bloom, particle matter all over the bar from rough handling either from store in Quebec City where purchased, or in shipping, lined molding marks on the back surface.

Score: 87

Snap: Excellent snap quality. Firm snap, nice and audible, clean break lines.

Score: 92

Aroma: Big aroma of almonds, vanilla, coconuts, smoke, and aged wood.

Score: 93

Taste: Cocoa-y, almonds, wood, spicy, earthy, *moldy, deeply bitter, cinnamon, tart, some slight hints of grapes. Lingering but very faint hints of tar from retro-olfaction and hints of notebook paper.

Score: 92

Texture: Creamy with a medium melt-time, but drying and a little bit gritty with some large particles, and chalky.

Score: 86

 

I really liked the molding. Aside from the bloom and particles, the pattern was nice and good size small tablets for tasting.

This was some pretty funky chocolate. I kind of liked it because of that. I don't know for sure if it's flawed chocolate or not, but the taste was very different than what I am used to. Like the so-called flaws of the Papua New Guinea beans at the moment. Some people don't know what to do with the smoked beans, and others handle it just fine. I like it when things taste different. This had big coconut, almonds and dried wood flavors, but more curiously were the earthy moldy flavors with grape and tar flavors on the finish. *I know that sounds bad to say mold flavors, but it didn't find it bad. It wasn't moldy chocolate, it just had very deep rustic earthy flavors. Like the time the Mast Brothers had a bar that smelled exactly like potting soil.

This is very deep chocolate as it's 85%, big strong, musty, and earthy with pleasant almonds and coconuts in it. Very different. I don't know the ratios of this blend, but I'd say African beans give the almonds and coconut flavors. Maybe some hints of Rio Caribe in this but small traces of it for the tar and deep bitter factor. I can't say for sure what makes it so earthy.

Very interesting. I would like to take a bar of this to wine tasting and try and find a good fruity counterpart to offset it's deep bitterness and earthiness. Normally I would suggest a beer, but I want to see what this funky thing would be like with wine.

 

Final Score: 90

   score
    B