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Bonnat ~ Madagascar 75%

 

 

 

Madagascar 75%

 

Type: Bittersweet, 75%

Bean Varietal: Unknown, but most likely Trinitario.

Ingredients: Cocoa, cocoa butter, sugar.

Sample Size: 100g

Lot #: A

 

Appearance: Broken bar, scratched, nicked, and scuffed surface, muted shine, rich mahogany color, monogrammed signature Bonnat molding.

Score: 83

Snap: Firm snap, but dull snap sound, a little softer than usual. Clean break lines.

Score: 87

Aroma: Smoky, very jammy, tart, soft and floral.

Score: 94

Taste: Tart and tangy, deeply bitter, very fruity, big wood flavors, tart jam flavor, tar, roasted cacao, mild hints of coffee grinds, deeply hidden pen ink and red wine.

Score: 93

Texture: Silky and chalky at the same time. A little out of synch with the balance. It has extraordinary melt time and is creamy, but not smooth. It's fairly chalky. Not what I am used to Bonnat texture.

Score: 89

 

Here is the direct opposite of the Ceylan bar I reviewed before this. This had a nice aroma, and a much fuller and brighter taste than the Ceylan, but texturally it was odd. Unbalanced and chalky with a fast melt time. I was torn about what to score it. The flavors are all about jam. Big fruity jam on the aroma and flavor. It's tart and full bodied with big wood flavors. It's quite big on the flavor. The aroma was still fairly soft, but more distinctive.

I am miffed about why the snap was weak too. It wasn't pathetic, but again, it wasn't the quality I am used to with Bonnat. Such a mixed bag for this bar of chocolate. Full flavor, nice aroma, lame snap and texture. This will be good to chop up and bake something with so not all is lost.

 

Final Score: 89.2

 

   score
    B

Bonnat ~ Ceylan 75%

 

 

 

Single origin Sri Lankan cacao made by French Chocolatier, Bonnat. Sri Lanka is just barely apart of that optimal range for cacao growing. But the conditions were right and here we are with the finished product.

 

I don't know really anything about Sri Lankan Cacao, but I found a good source for some quick information from The Spice Council. Word is that the whole island is a fragrant beast (The Perfume Isle) with the spices and terroir impacting some of the aromas and flavors.

 

Ceylan 75%

 

Type: Bittersweet, 75%

Bean Varietal: Unknown

Ingredients: Cocoa, cocoa butter, and sugar.

Sample size: 100g

Lot #: A

 

Appearance: Signature Bonnat molding, large tablet with small tablets easy for breaking and tasting, soft brown color, shiny surface with a few matting marks on the surface.

Score: 91

Snap: Excellent snap. Nice and audible, clean break lines, very firm snap.

Score: 93

Aroma: Soft berries, a little tart, light roasted cacao, mildly smoky, slight aromas of tobacco and wood.

Score: 89

Taste: Deeply bitter, a little acidic, but not astringent, very mellow flavors, oak wood, char, rubber, roasted cacao, very subdued berries and toasted biscuit flavors, and soft hints of floral vanilla. Some lingering fruits left on the palate, like a soft nectarine and strawberry flavor mixed with cream. Like a lassi maybe. Can't put my finger exactly on it.

Score: 90

Texture: A little hard in the beginning, but then opens up to an insanely silky smooth texture with a medium fast melt-time.

Score: 96

 

Bonnat just slays me with their texture. I don't know they manage it, but it's my favorite. It's like pure silk and creaminess. This bar was a little hard at first but then the true texture revealed itself. It's one of the reasons Bonnat was on my Top Ten last year and probably will be on there again this year too for the texture.

I expected more from the flavors and aroma. It was very soft on those areas. If Sri Lanaka is a big flavorful spice island, then how come this are didn't really reflect that? I can't speak for where cacao is grown, but certain Asian bars are known to have picked up very distinctive banana flavors and other flavors that terroir. I expected more flavors like that the present themselves. Cool mango/strawberry lassi flavors on the finish but very soft. It's a nice way to leave the bar instead of the more dominant char and rubber flavors in the beginning.

The flavors and aromas were just average, but again the texture of this bar is the major defining factor. I wish I could see the techniques they use to make their bars.

 

Final Score: 91.8

   score
  B+